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Post by loggy on Mar 4, 2007 13:16:47 GMT -4
What do you flinters use in your jaws to hold the flints?
I for many years used leather which is the common material that is supplied with flintlocks when bought.
About 10 years ago i wasnt happy with the amount of spark I was getting and my local gun dealer suggested trying some strip lead in lieu of leather. WOW!!!! What a difference. Holds flints great, doesnt attract moisture, HARDER STRIKE and tremendous sparks. I always use premium agate flints.
The lead is found at roofer supply places & most roofers have scrap. Not as common as it used to be but still plenty around.
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onager
lodge member
Posts: 244
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Post by onager on Mar 9, 2007 11:15:12 GMT -4
I may try to pick up the lead. I'm still developing my relationship with my yet unnamed Accusporter. My biggest challenge is getting a good spark into the pan. Once all the pieces come together for consitent pan ignition. Then I'll move on to lead/copper IN the barrel. I'll try the Hornady xtp for accuracy and also do some penetration tests. Nothing to scientific.
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Post by loggy on Mar 9, 2007 15:51:14 GMT -4
:)Welcome aboard onager!! We will soon have our whole TH Hog Hunt group signed up here. I believe BCF is havin puter problems but expect him here too!
I have the german agates in my accusporter & use 3fg in the pan. Great spark. It came with leather in the jaws & got decent spark with it but better with lead.
Be sure to post-up Thread if any particular problems or PM me anytime & I will try yo help.
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Post by greybearjr on Mar 9, 2007 20:48:52 GMT -4
I almost always use lead in the jaws. If it was good enough for the British lobsterbacks then its good enough for me. No need for the roofers lead loggy. Just take a .50 to .60 cal round ball and pound it flat, Trim with a pair of scissors and cut a notch in the back for the cock screw and your done.
GBJ
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Post by rs on Mar 9, 2007 21:25:52 GMT -4
Thanks for the tip on the hammer and the roundball,i read loggys post and asked a local roofer ::)he just looked at me kinda dumb and said dont have any.
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Post by dickert54cal on Mar 9, 2007 22:23:13 GMT -4
I always use leather but might end up trying the lead...Is it time era approp. to 1770?
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Post by loggy on Mar 10, 2007 9:36:39 GMT -4
I always use leather but might end up trying the lead...Is it time era approp. to 1770? ;DEven even before then. Lead was mined in the Durham dales from the 12th century, and was in demand for the roofs of important medieval buildings such as castles and churches, as well as for water supply systems, especially in monasteries.
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Post by greybearjr on Mar 10, 2007 11:12:31 GMT -4
[glow=red,2,300]as well as for water supply systems, especially in monasteries.[/glow] Can you say Alzheimer's
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Post by berkscoflinter2 on Mar 14, 2007 18:26:34 GMT -4
I agree with GreybearJr., simply hammer a round ball flat, do some trimming for the hammer screw, and you end up with real flint grabber. Just make sure to tighten the hammer screw after every half dozen shots or so.
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Post by loggy on Mar 14, 2007 19:10:19 GMT -4
Great tip there BCF!
The lead sheeting roofin matl is becoming almost impossible to find.
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onager
lodge member
Posts: 244
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Post by onager on Mar 27, 2007 15:14:16 GMT -4
I know this is an old post...but... I flattened a round ball and used it to secure my flint. So far, sure spark and fast ignition. Thanks for the tip! ;D
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Post by rs on Jan 21, 2008 13:56:26 GMT -4
With the season over i thought i would give lead a try to hold the flint in the jaws fired three shots and each time the flint ended up coming loose , one time falling out completely at the shot , any suggestions. the lead i used is .070 thick and trimmed to the width of the agate flint.
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Post by longhunter on Jan 21, 2008 16:23:12 GMT -4
rs, It could be the lead you're using isn't pure lead and therefore not soft enough. My experience with using lead in the jaws was the same as yours. Either it came loose all the time or, more often, shocked the flint so bad that it shattered and split. I eventually went back to plain old thin deerskin which works as good as anything else. The thickness seems to be the key. A thick piece of cowhide give too much cushion thereby limiting the sparks. A thin piece will grab just as well yet not cushion as much creating more sparks.
Good luck!
Longhunter
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Post by tomcat on Jan 21, 2008 21:45:14 GMT -4
I have never had any problems getting good spark using leather to hold the flint but never tried lead. Like longhunter already said, thinner leather strips seem to work work best. I use English flints in my custom guns with Jim Chambers locks and the cut German agate in my Thompson Pa. Hunter, bevel up for the Chambers and bevel down for the Thompson.
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onager
lodge member
Posts: 244
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Post by onager on Jan 22, 2008 11:40:13 GMT -4
Those with flintlock renown here suggested that I make sure the lead is thin if making from a ball. I guess the one constant is thin. I like the lead because I can make wings which fold down nicely. But I am still an apprentice with the flintlock. Question. What influences the decision to do bevel up/down with the flint. I suspect/hope a lesson on arcs and angles to follow.
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