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Post by skwirl on Feb 18, 2008 16:57:21 GMT -4
What are your thoughts? Here is what Savage recommends
Although there may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)
Fire one round Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction) Push dry patches through the bore (2 times) Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction) Push dry patches through the bore (2 times) Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)
Fire a 3 shot group Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)
Fire a 5 shot group Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 They recommend the use of a patch with 2 drops of oil after the cleaning so that you are not shooting with a dry bore. It is also advisable to use a powder solvent and copper solvent from the same manufacturer to be sure they are chemically compatible.
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Post by skwirl on Feb 18, 2008 17:09:41 GMT -4
I think this may be an ammo company's idea ;D
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Post by firefightnlife on Feb 18, 2008 17:11:39 GMT -4
maybe
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Post by frankinthelaurels on Feb 18, 2008 17:55:32 GMT -4
YOU got the right idea but I'll tell you what I see on the benchrest shooting circuit..both long range, shortrange, 1000 yards etc.... 1st ten shots..first clean the barrel thoroughly...before firing the first shot...the products we'll be using are KROIL, a penetrating oil, JB paste and Butches Bore Shine... step 1, Kroil the barrel, spray it right in, try not to get it in the trigger assembly, it get's sticky unless you rinse it out with rubbing alcohol after your done cleaning...step 2 Kroil and a little bit of JB PASTE, short stroke the barrel but do not back up, once the patch falls out the end be very careful not to chip the crown pulling the metal back--big problem if you do...step 3 Kroil and Butches, step 4 Kroil and Butches...step 5 dry patch #1 dry patch #2...ready to shoot one shot..repeat the same procedure for the first ten shots..from 11-20, shoot two shots and follow the same procedure...this will break in you barrel and save you alot of cleaning time later..I shoot only moly coated bullets and have bore scoped all my barrels after 1000's of shots and have seen very little wear..even my 22/250 is remarkable clean except for some spider cracking.. all the work you do now will save you lots of time later and will make your barrel last alot longer...you will be able to shoot 50-100 shots without cleaning and it will remain super accurate throughout...I NEVER USE ANY TYPE OF METAL BRUSH, NEVER...only nylon, patches and fluids...the most important part is the crown, do not chip it, take care of it...nothing will ruin your groups faster..then after barrel break in, it's time to experiment..now the fun begins..one other thing..get yourseld a straight line bullet seater...read all you can... www.6mmbr.com click on you caliber and read what the pros are using in competition, right under dailey bulletin... they have a ton on the .223, it will save you lots of time...
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Post by skwirl on Feb 18, 2008 20:04:29 GMT -4
Frank have you seen or had any experience with these so called barrel break in bullets??
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Post by mrlongbeard on Feb 18, 2008 20:28:07 GMT -4
thats a lot to go thru for a deer rifle. the deer rifle in most cases only gets shoot five or six times a year in most cases. not many hunter shoot enough like they should. doing this on a gun for long distance is a good idea. it may help with a deer rifle if you use it often enough.
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Post by firefightnlife on Feb 19, 2008 8:50:37 GMT -4
every new gun has already had a round through it already i thought.
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Post by skwirl on Feb 19, 2008 12:36:03 GMT -4
I'm pretty sure they test fire all firearms before they are sold
the reason I asked about a break in is I've read several articles about rifles not grouping well until after several boxes of shells being put through them
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