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Post by tess on Feb 9, 2008 21:38:05 GMT -4
I have some chestnut and Dwarf Chinquapin Oak I want to plant on my land this year and I have a grape vine problem. What can I use to kill off grape vines the area is infested. Is it best to just pull it out or should I spray with round up keeping in mind I don’t want to harm the old red and white oaks
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Post by biggtrout on Feb 9, 2008 22:48:21 GMT -4
You should ask The PGC/DCNR - they are experts at killing wild grape vines - since grapes take up space on their tree farms and provide food and cover for game, both agencies have at times eradicated wild grape vines.
If it was me, I'd let the grapes be and hope to find a better place for your plantings....or cut the vines off at the floor with saws and hope your plantings grow faster than the grape's new shoots.....the deer will probably eat both anyway...
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richg
new member
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Post by richg on Feb 9, 2008 23:53:13 GMT -4
I'd hate to kill wild grapes because deer,turkeys,and grouse eat them but if you insist, spray heavily with round up if you can do it without hitting the oaks.You need to hit the leaves with the round up.
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Post by tess on Feb 10, 2008 7:55:43 GMT -4
The place is so thick with grape in some spots you can barley walk through it and it’s been this way for 30 years. When I head out to hang a camera ill take a few pictures. I’m looking to plant chestnut and Chinquapin Oak because they produce in 10 years and unlike red and white oaks they will produce a nice crop every year, they aren’t as likely to be effected by frost and will help draw deer onto the land.
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richg
new member
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Post by richg on Feb 10, 2008 9:03:41 GMT -4
Those vines will be tough to kill tess.I'd nail it a couple of times and keep the mixture heavily concentrated.
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Post by biggtrout on Feb 10, 2008 9:33:51 GMT -4
Tess, your existing oaks will produce much more mast if their crowns are free to breathe - check out this website: fw.ky.gov/timber.aspThis site also addresses removing grape vines.
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Post by btexpress on Feb 10, 2008 11:45:15 GMT -4
tess, check up on the sawtooth oak. Some say they've had acorns in 2-3 years after planting.
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Post by whitetail101 on Feb 10, 2008 17:28:32 GMT -4
Tess - In early april(depending on your location - but it is best to do it when the leaves start arriving) take a hand saw or pruning shears and cut the vines off as close to the ground as possible.
You have to do this as the sap is comming into them, cutting them at this time will make them "bleed" thus killing them.
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Post by beenthere on Feb 10, 2008 21:11:24 GMT -4
There is one thing I can assure you and that is if you are planning on planting saplings in an existing stand of oaks , you will be disappointed with the results. The most important thing a seedling or sapling needs is unlimited sunlight. If a tree doesn't have enough sun, you will be measuring growth rates of a few inches /yr. and if you are unlucky and have a drought ,your saplings will die. If you don't want to cut your existing trees to provide the required sunlight, you will produce better results by maximizing the potential of the existing oaks that you have.
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Post by tess on Feb 10, 2008 23:27:15 GMT -4
The 7 oaks on this bench are large but scattered over an area about 300 yards long by about 100 yards deep I was going to thin the junk trees beech and birch along with the grape and plant the chestnut and dwarf oak
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Post by biggtrout on Feb 10, 2008 23:53:20 GMT -4
I personally don't consider beech trees junk - birch - yeah, they could use some thinning I'm sure. Consensus seems to be cutting the grape vines off a few feet above the ground - when sap is flowing seems like the best time too......those sawtooth oaks really grow fast and produce alot of acorns too....so you might want to consider them as well.
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Post by algerine on Feb 13, 2008 17:56:07 GMT -4
Your chestnuts will not make it. They love full sun. Will be a waste of effort planting them there.
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Post by beenthere on Feb 14, 2008 9:25:22 GMT -4
The 7 oaks on this bench are large but scattered over an area about 300 yards long by about 100 yards deep I was going to thin the junk trees beech and birch along with the grape and plant the chestnut and dwarf oak In order to have any chance of success you'll probably have to remove everything but the oaks and then cut the stump sprouts and any other new growth for several years until your transplants can compete with the natural regeneration. It takes a lot of work to introduce transplants into an existing stand of trees.
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Post by tess on Feb 14, 2008 13:25:01 GMT -4
The 7 oaks on this bench are large but scattered over an area about 300 yards long by about 100 yards deep I was going to thin the junk trees beech and birch along with the grape and plant the chestnut and dwarf oak In order to have any chance of success you'll probably have to remove everything but the oaks and then cut the stump sprouts and any other new growth for several years until your transplants can compete with the natural regeneration. It takes a lot of work to introduce transplants into an existing stand of trees. that’s the plan remove everything but the oaks then when I retire I will have my own honey hole a little work now for a large return later. Down below in the field I have chestnut, apple, pear, sawtooth oak and dwarf oak as well as several black walnuts
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Post by boatcapt on Feb 18, 2008 20:52:10 GMT -4
Like what was said before cut vines off at ground level but also cut off about 5' off the ground.. If not you will constantly be going back thinking you missed a vine - only to find out you already cut it..will eliminate alot of circling back!!
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