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Post by Buckslayer on Sept 9, 2007 21:31:28 GMT -4
do you use center shot or papertuning sighting in your bow??
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Post by whitetail101 on Sept 9, 2007 21:49:20 GMT -4
I use both methods.
Centershot only makes sure that everything is lined up as a base point.
Paper tuning ensures that you are getting near-perfect or perfect arrow flight from your bow. You may have a perfect centershot, but might have your nock point too high or too low, or your rest may need to be left or right of cenbtershot. Without papertuning you would not know this and have poor accuracy when shooting broadheads.
good luck
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Post by bfisher on Sept 10, 2007 8:44:59 GMT -4
I tend to disagree with this. There are several methods used to tune bows. All of them work well, but paper tuning is just a starting method.
Paper tuning only tells you how your arrow is leaving the bow. Tuning for a bullet hole seems to be everybody's goal, but it's not totally necessary. And to give accurate results it should be done at several different distances like 4',10', and 15'. A lot of guys paper tune out to 20 yards, but truth be known, if your arrows aren't punching bullet holes at anything over 10 yards then you have some serious problems, because the fletching is working on that arrow at that point.
Bare shaft tuning can work well, but you better have pretty darn good form and consistent as well. It takes an experienced shooter to know that FOC is slightly different for this method and be able to "read" the results accordingly. It can be pretty satisfying to see nothing but a nock going to 35 yards znd bang into the same spot as fletched arrows with no planing. Of course it takes some very consistently spined arrows as well.
Walkback tuning is very good for fine tuning centershot even after paper tuning.
If you're setting up a hunting rig I prefer broadhead tuning because that is the type of head you are going to shoot. And shooting longer distances is better than shorter ones. Here's why. Assume you have paper tuned and getting a bullet hole. That's all well and good, but somewhere down range is where you want accuracy. Too little FOC and/or too much rear drag (fletching) can cause arrows to drift, opening up the group size.
This is putting things pretty basic, but I hope you get the idea. I don't think any one tuning method can "do it all". It's important to learn and use several methods to see the overall picture of what your arrows are doing. That's why a lot of us are never done tinkering with our gear.
One thing I'd also like to mention is I think many people can't get consistent results with any tuning method because their bow doesn't fit them. Draw length being the biggest culprit. The bow must fit the archer--period. And this is where I say fine tuning comes into play. The first thing you do is adjust the bow to fit or not much else matters.
Shooting the bow is the easy part. Tinkering and fine tuning every aspect of the equipment and our shooting form is a science.
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Post by mrlongbeard on Sept 10, 2007 20:21:39 GMT -4
went to the walk back tuning and got excellent results.
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Post by mikec on Sept 10, 2007 20:50:28 GMT -4
For those unfamiliar with walk back tuning here is a post from nuts and bolts on a.t. that shows it very clearly --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walk back tuning by nuts&bolts
Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target.
Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker.
Don't worry about where the arrow hits.
Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the same 20-yd pin setting, fire an arrow at the sticker.
Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker.
If your arrows look like this pattern " / " or “\”, then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch.
If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction.
If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction.
Keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows.
Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".
LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect.
But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string.
The vertical pattern of arrows may be on one side of the string. Let’s say the arrows are say 6-inches to the left of the weighted string.
Pick a direction to adjust your sight ring windage. Adjust the sight ring windage 1/16th of an inch. Repeat the test. Fire arrows at least 3 distances, and see if the vertical pattern of arrows gets closer to the string.
If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting closer to the string, then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction. If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting farther away, then adjust in the other direction.
Eventually, you will have a vertical pattern of arrows right on top of the string.
Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2007 22:38:11 GMT -4
thanks for the imfo
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